"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
08/14/2018 at 12:12 • Filed to: None
0
38|
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
08/14/2018 at 12:12 • Filed to: None | 0
| 38 |
Anyone know of a reputable spray that I can shoot into a fender cavity to slow the progress of rust? I have a little rust from a repair from an accident early in the life of the vehicle and the shop I took it to get an estimate says its coming from between panels. He suggested spraying into the cavity to slow it down. any good products to try? I know it’s not a cure but it gives me more time to figure out what I want to do with it.
UPDATE - Turns out I forgot that I already bought fluid film to protect my hilift. So I sprayed the area with that. boom.
benjrblant
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 15:32 |
|
Fluid film is a great product for this application. It’s a lanolin aerosol that spreads out and coats surfaces.
https://oppositelock.kinja.com/rust-proofing-1821186422
gettingoldercarguy
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 15:35 |
|
T9 Boeshield
crowmolly
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 15:36 |
|
Check out the stuff at Eastwood. I think they make an aerosol rust reformer.
Berang
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 15:36 |
|
Whatever the modern equivalent o f waxoyl is.
|
HammerheadFistpunch
> gettingoldercarguy
08/13/2018 at 15:38 |
|
its funny that I’ve used this for years on my mountain bikes, but never considered it for rust proofing....hmm. I even have some at home still.
merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 15:38 |
|
Or POR15
|
HammerheadFistpunch
> crowmolly
08/13/2018 at 15:39 |
|
now with rust reformers I’ve noticed that if you don’t spray on top it seems to create additional rust, or maybe go away? I use it on my sliders and if I don’t spray black on top the rust either comes back or spreads. any truth to that?
|
HammerheadFistpunch
> merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc
08/13/2018 at 15:39 |
|
I’ve heard of POR15, i hear its a mess but could work. Isn’t it thick though? I need something that will go into tight spaces.
Dasupersprint - base trim is enough
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 15:39 |
|
I put this in my project car
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html
|
HammerheadFistpunch
> benjrblant
08/13/2018 at 15:40 |
|
that was my first thought. Though I already have rust in there so I was thinking of some kind of reformer product maybe?
|
HammerheadFistpunch
> Dasupersprint - base trim is enough
08/13/2018 at 15:41 |
|
that sounds like what I’m looking for.
Svend
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 15:43 |
|
Look for products by Bilt Hamber.
https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/
They have a new product which is a water borne migratory and contact corrosion inhibitor.
https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/atom-mac
|
HammerheadFistpunch
> Svend
08/13/2018 at 15:49 |
|
Can’t seem to find a US distributor.
|
crowmolly
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 15:54 |
|
D epends on the products used . Not all of them need to be topcoated, but some do as they aren’t UV stable. Also, it may depend on the actual formula. Some stuff seems way too cheap to be effective in my opinion.
You *could* try doing it the two-part way: C arefully applying an etching solution (Picklex, Ospho, DX579/520, etc) then rinse and apply a rust converter over that.
|
benjrblant
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 15:57 |
|
Ooh, I should get a can of that for my steel frames.
RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 16:01 |
|
The tricky thing about rust reformers is that they have to have something which reacts with rust and enters the rust/water complex on the surface of the metal. That means water soluble, that means acid - usually phosphoric. The problem then is that depending on the final chemical state of what’s doing the reforming, it’s usually at least a little permeable to water and because it’s an acid, capable of forming an ionic solution or substrate. This means that the rust will come back unless the substance is sealed with something else after being dried to an insane degree, or unless it itself reacts to form something hard and impermeable as part of its cure.
I can tell you that even rust reformer undercoating of a reputable brand is not ideal on the latter count.
You’re almost best off when you have next to no access to just try and blast out anything loose, dry it to a state of drier than the Sahara, and use one of the waxes, IMHO.
In other words, something like what Svend suggests is best because it has an inhibitor, not a converter.
razorbeamteam
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 16:02 |
|
I’d recommend fluid film as well. Keeps existing rust happy and stops the spread from what I understand. I use it liberally in all the cavities and anywhere I can get the little straw to shoot.
MoCamino
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 16:02 |
|
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/Cavity-Wax.html
|
HammerheadFistpunch
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
08/13/2018 at 16:04 |
|
I can do that. Dry is pretty easy in the driest summer state in the US.
Future next gen S2000 owner
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 16:07 |
|
It is wrong to suggest bed liner?
For Sweden
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
08/13/2018 at 16:10 |
|
As an engineer who did the bare minimum chemistry to earn a degree, this comment triggers me
|
merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 16:14 |
|
Yeah POR15 is more of a brush on application. That duplicolor product is a spray. It works in a pinch. There’s other rust converter sprays out there too. I’d go that route in lieu of a paraffin type product that just coats the rust. But something is better than nothing. The converter products are able to be used as a primer layer as well. So you can apply a paint over it.
|
merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 16:16 |
|
I’d go with that Eastwood product instead. Same idea as POR15, but sprayable.
|
RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> For Sweden
08/13/2018 at 16:20 |
|
As an engineer who did the bare minimum in chemistry but still likes to dabble in it, fite me
materials science was my jam
|
For Sweden
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
08/13/2018 at 16:21 |
|
Do you also dabble in kn ocking and wearing black hats?
|
RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> For Sweden
08/13/2018 at 16:21 |
|
I dabble in all kinds of evil, baby
|
gettingoldercarguy
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 16:28 |
|
TheRealBicycleBuck
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 16:38 |
|
A lot of the steel frame bicycle builders recommend Frame Saver to prevent rust. I don’t know if it would work on existing rust.
|
Svend
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 18:03 |
|
If you want to give me a couple of weeks, I can post some across.
MM54
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/13/2018 at 19:59 |
|
I would go with Fluid Film
pip bip - choose Corrour
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/14/2018 at 05:56 |
|
expanding foam?
Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/14/2018 at 12:20 |
|
I usually use a high zinc content rustoleum paint, and layer it on. The key in corrosion control is to cut off the pathway of water and air to the affected area, then the zinc helps pacify what ever corrosion you currently have.
I know the routine, I drive a 2006 Mazda3.
|
HammerheadFistpunch
> Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
08/14/2018 at 12:21 |
|
it would be pretty tricky to get that in this space. its a small little void.
|
Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
> HammerheadFistpunch
08/14/2018 at 12:27 |
|
I think your plan of a fluid film is probably the best you can do. An aerosolized oil would coat the metal pretty well and prevent further corrosion. It would probably need to be periodically reapplied.
The ultimate would be to hot dip galvanize the entire vehicle.
Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
> Dasupersprint - base trim is enough
08/14/2018 at 12:27 |
|
Saved. Going to use this in the rockers of the Lexus.
|
HammerheadFistpunch
> Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
08/14/2018 at 12:28 |
|
sigh. thats the dream.
|
Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
08/14/2018 at 12:31 |
|
Hey,
I got a C in chemistry
. I worked hard for that C, or was it Kelvin, or Fahrenheit
?
|
RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> Highlander-Datsuns are Forever
08/14/2018 at 12:47 |
|
Rankine.